1998EldertonCommandShiraz

Sans Elderton Command Shiraz has established an international reputation as one of Australia’s Great Wine Icons.The Elderton style reflects the Barossa terroir perfectly, resulting in a voluptuous, super ripe fruit bomb, that has enthralled wine lovers around the world.Recently, a distinguished Californian wine maker labelled Australian Shiraz as a ‘caricature’ of what (according to him) Shiraz ought to smell and taste like, preferring an obviously lighter leaner and less fruit filled wine.So what is a real Shiraz supposed to taste like?The answer to that question will depend on who you ask and from what part of the globe they come from.A winemaker in an area like Rhone Valley would aim to produce a lighter, less alcoholic wine (around 12% alc/vol) and consequently display more white and black pepper qualities than its Barossa counterpart.In a conversation with Ron Laughton of Heathcote’s Jasper Hill, it was revealed that the pepper flavour profiles are in fact due to less than fully ripened fruit, a parallel that could be drawn with leafy, vegetal qualities of Cabernet.Laughton maintains that it is only two weeks after he tastes the black pepper qualities in his berries that he will consider picking the grapes – waiting for the richer riper fruit bomb qualities to emerge.The ripe Australian Shiraz’s from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale or Heathcote, Victoria have alcohol levels typically between 14-15%, with some even being higher.However, there is generally no sign of portiness or hot alcohol characteristics on the finish.The qualities that make Australian Shiraz so unique are the juxtaposition of apparent conflicting qualities.Super rich fruit, velvet smooth richness, spectacular colour and density, followed by layers of mesmerising flavour, and relatively high alcohol with low pH levels. Who could blame international winemakers for being envious of such a combination.