ChâteauGrand-Puy-Lacoste,5ecruclasséPauillac2023EnPrimeur–Caseof6

So often ‘Gentleman’s Claret’, this year you’ll find a svelte, trimmed wine with lovely curranty notes on the nose, some cedar even, then very swish in the mouth, poised and elegant with layers of fruit and spice. Refined and easy while long in the finish, it has perfect oak and a fluid, fresh feel. Emmeline Borie was very pleased with it, rather more so than with her builders who have started on a new winery but are taxing her patience. “It will be wonderful for your next visit, she said, adding, “hopefully next year!” No need to wait until then for a brilliant wine, however. Buy the 2023.