PhilipponnatClosdesGoisses

97/100 – From the 5.83-hectare walled vineyard in a cooler, ‘classic’ vintage for Champagne, giving this a finessed and charming expression. Baked pastry and soft lemon curd notes on the nose, smells inviting and softly floral – honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon and lime rind with some peach. Juicy and so zesty straight away, bright, mouthwateing, scintillatingly fresh and lively, thrilling even, with tiny persistent bubbles that instantly froth and fill the mouth. Alive and energetic with lemon rind and juice, succulent green apples and strawberries, grapefruit and ginger bitterness with touches of salinity and graphite dotting the finish. This makes you instantly want another glass, but this has structure too and such a long finish. No malolactic fermentation. Dosage 4.5g/l. – Georgina Hindle, Decanter

95/100 – This is showing elegant and complex aromas of pie crust, cinnamon rolls, spiced apples and hazelnuts. Hints of mocha and berry crumble. Very creamy bubbles on the palate, with caressing pastry elements married to bright acidity. There’s richness, but it’s sleek and fresh at the end. 71% pinot noir and 29% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2023. 4.5g/L dosage. Drink or hold. – James Suckling

93/100 – The 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is aromatic, soft-spoken and quiet in demeanor. This is an especially floral, delicate Goisses with lovely floral top notes and decidedly mid-weight structure. The 2014 remains noticeably fresh and vibrant, but I just find it a bit light on the mid-palate. Dosage is 4.25 grams per liter. Disgorged: March 2023. – Antonio Galloni, Vinous

17++/20 – Exciting, youthful wine with a strong umami character. Needs a bit more time to fully open out to show the pure glory of this single-vineyard wine. – Jancis Robinson MW