PhilipponnatClosdesGoissesExtra-Brut2014

The Philipponnat family, originally from Switzerland, settled in Champagne in the middle of the 16th century. Their history as vine-growers is believed to have begun in 1522, but the house as we know it today wasn’t officially founded until 1910. Pierre Philipponnat established his house in a difficult era, with the Champagne Riots, a World War, and the Great Depression incoming. But the house’s fortunes changed in 1935, when Pierre acquired what would eventually become one of Champagne’s greatest treasures and one of the world’s greatest wines â€?a little-known, steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard called Clos des Goisses, which is still the jewel in the Philipponnat crown today.rrIn 1997, the house was purchased by Bruno Paillard, becoming part of what is now the Lanson-BCC Group. Although Philipponnat has lost family ownership, it is now back under family management, after Paillard convinced sixteenth generation Charles Philipponnat to come and run the business his grandfather had founded 90 years earlier. Alongside cellar master Thierry Garnier, who has been with Philipponnat since 1993, Charles has been busy establishing a more Pinot-dominant house style, much-loved by connoisseurs. Philipponnat are also celebrated in the trade for printing disgorgement dates on their labels, which they have been doing since 1996. Today, Philipponnat enjoys growing acclaim from both wine critics and the world of haute cuisine.rrThe jewel in the Champagne Philipponnat crown is a tiny 5.5-hecatre single walled vineyard called Clos des Goisses. Acquired in 1935, Pierre Philipponnat was quick to realise the potential of this unique plot and immediately started producing a single vineyard blend. Originally named Vin des Goisses, it was changed to Clos de Goisses in 1959 and thus the category of Clos champagnes (produced from grapes within walled vineyards) was born. Clos des Goisses is truly iconic: situated by the Marne canal, it is a steep-sloping, south-facing vineyard with an inclination of 35-45 degrees that can only be fully appreciated by visiting. Gois, means a very steep slope. Due to its size, production is limited to a maximum of 55,000 bottles each year. rrVinification: The 5.83 hectare vineyard protected by walls is one of the region’s few “closâ€?and the oldest and steepest in Champagne. In a perfect position facing due south, it stands on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay. It really is an exceptional terroir where the chalky bedrock is very close to the surface. Partial vinification (64%) in wooden barrels leads to more complexity without premature oxidation. There is no malolactic fermentation, which enables the wine’s natural acidity to compensate the powerful character of the terroir.rrCultivation: Due to the steep slope wineyard, work in the Clos des Goisses is almost entirely done by hand, and the vines are trained with particular care. No insecticides nor synthetic herbicides are used. Weeds are controlled with traditional mechanical methods, tilling and hoeing by hand the steepest slopes.rrWeather: 2014 was characterised by mild temperatures and frequent rainfall and a few weeks of high temperatures, a very solid vintage with good ripeness and acidity. Flowering began in June and summer was a combination of dry, wet and cold spells. Some regions saw some disease and Meunier in the Marne Valley didn’t have a great year and some of the Pinot Noir with its thinner skin made it more difficult for the red grapes. Harvest took place from 13th to 25th September. A year where it was necessary to select the red grapes carefully to maintain high quality. In general Chardonnay is the star of the vintage.rrTechnical Information:rVineyards: 100% 1er Cru, Mareuil-sur-Ay â€?Single vineyard: Clos des GoissesrGrape Varieties: 71% Pinot Noir, 29% ChardonnayrLees Ageing: 8 yearsrFermentation: 64% in Oak, 36% in steel & 0% MalolacticrDisgorged: March 2023rDosage: 4.5 g/lrProduction: 19,984 bottlesrDrink: Now to 2040rrTasting Note: Delicate scents of wet pebbles, lime blossom, and green apples plus emerging wafts of Marcona almonds, yuzu, and baking bread. Light-bodied and very dry, the palate is super-fine and delicately crafted, with a lively backbone supporting the intense flavors, finishing long and minerally. â€?Tasted by Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW