RaulPerez,LaVizcaina–LaVitoriana,Bierzo2020MAGNUM

A beautifully ripe intermingling of dark and red fruits with a spine of cooling acidity, perhaps derived from that north-exposition. A finely tannic impression and no trace of oak; it’s a beautifully unadorned Bierzo. Planted in 1881, La Vitoriana is still on Pie Franco rootstocks and faces north at 600m elevation.

Dense and deep-flavoured. Throbbing with potential. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com (16.5)