RogerCoulonLesHautsPartasBlancdeBlancsGrandCru2016

Eric and Isabelle Coulon (8th generation), now joined by their children Edgar and Louise, farm 11 hectares of vines in Premier Cru villages of Vrigny, Gueux and Coulommes-la-Montagne on the petit Montagne de Reims and the Grand Cru village of Chouilly in the Côte des Blancs. They farm the vineyards organically certified organic since 2019, with cover crops helping control humidity and reduce disease pressure, important since Meunier is the most susceptible grape to rot. They also have several agroforestry initiatives; and Eric Coulon, much like his brother-in-law Francis Egly ofthe famed Egly-Ouriet, believes in picking late in pursuit of full physiological maturity. They are justly proud of the history of the vineyard, which goes back to the cultivation of vines here in the 6th century, and also of their own long family history, with Edgar and Louise being the ninth generation. Eric learned the job with his grandfather, who has always stuck to the tried and tested methods of previous generations. They’ve always worked as naturally as possible, leaving grass cover in higher hillside plots to avoid erosion, ploughing most of the land, and using manures to bring limited natural fertilizers.rrThe vines are in around 100 parcels, so although they aim to press by parcel, some do end up going together. Around one third is vinified in tank, the rest in barrel. Both Edgar and Louise have trained in wine-making elsewhere, Louise at Domaine Ott, and Edgar with Philippe Pacalet and Fredéric Cossard in Burgundy, but also in England and Australia.rrThe family pick at high maturity, to give the wines a natural balance and feel, and the maximum dosage used is 3g/l. The second fermentation targets lower than normal, between 4.5-4.8 bar, where as 6 bar is more common across Champagne.The lower pressure gives a lower mousse and lighter perception of acidity. “Everything at Roger Coulon needs to be harmonious, that’s what counts the most for me.”rrA vineyard of Grand cru Chardonnay in the best part of the slope, right by the Château de Saran, where the chalk comes to the surface. This is always the last parcel that Coulon harvest, as it ripens late, but the ripeness is important to wait for â€?it gives naturally very small bunches with lots of millerandange, so a very concentrated and flavourful juice. A small parcel of vines 30 to 45 years old. 150 m. Spontaneous fermentation, slow at low temperatures in vats and small oak barrels. Natural malolactic fermentation. rrTechnical Information:rVineyards: Grand Cru â€?ChouillyrGrape Varieties: 100% ChardonnayrLees Ageing: 5 yearsrDisgorged: November 2022rDosage: 2 g/lrDrink: Now for 5 yearsrrTasting Note: Candied angelica, candied peel, smoke packed into layer upon layer of polyhedric acidity and structure. A matrix of a wine that is shafted by helical verticality. Shimmering green acidity that sifts through light with nacreous iridescence, that tastes like crushed green cardamom in bergamot syrup. Absolutely outstanding. The electricity of this wine is off the chart. â€?Tasted by Tamlyn Currin