Wittmann,KirchspielGGRiesling2012

Gone are the days when I used to look at the Kirchspiel as a mere example of a well-stacked fruit stall. Not that it has lost its exotic appeal of all kinds of citrus fruit, but leaving it there would not do justice to the fine display of dusty spices, green herbs and stony minerality. Yes, it’s fresh, it’s fruity, but it does not lack edge on the finish. We don’t often get the benefit of hindsight, but having been very lucky to taste many different Kirchspiel wines of various vintages and styles over recent months, I have learnt one thing: it has that certain je ne sais quoi. Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com (18.5)